Captain's beds combine a solid, full box frame with under-bed storage cupboards or drawers. They are ideal for teens and anyone who needs a strong, firm support to get a good night's rest. They work well in small, narrow rooms and can double as a sofa during the day if combined with large throw pillows. They can be placed head first against a wall, with drawers or cupboard doors on both sides, or they can be placed lengthwise against a wall, with access on only one side. The directions in this article will make a bed that will support a single or full mattress, or you can make a custom memory foam mattress to fit. (See Tips & Warnings) Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Use a carpenter's try square to ensure the corners of all the plywood sheets and stock lumber pieces make 90-degree angles. If they do not, cut them to the correct angle using a miter fence and table saw.
2. Cut tenons on each end of each of the 2x4-inchx8-feet lengths of stock lumber. Cut matching mortises into the 4-inch side of each end of the 2x4-inchx4-feet lengths of stock lumber, so that the long pieces will lie flush with the short pieces when the tenons are inserted into the mortises. Use a carpenter's try square to ensure that the corners make 90-degree angles.
3. Apply carpenter's glue to the inside of each mortise and the outside of each tenon. Allow the glue to dry until tacky. Insert the tenons into the mortises and push firmly. Wipe away any excess glue. This will make identical top and bottom frames.
4. Place a 4x4x36-inch post in each corner of one of the frames you made in Step Three. Drill two 1/4-inch pilot holes through the 4-feet long sides of the 2x4-inch frame and into the 4x4-inch posts, one inch from each end horizontally and two inches apart vertically. Countersink all of the holes. Attach the posts to the frame using 4-inch long, 1/2-inch diameter wood screws.
5. Turn the posts and frame upside down and repeat Step 4 to attach the second frame to the posts. Snap a chalk line across the long sides of the top and bottom frame, 4 feet from each short end. Snap two additional chalk lines across the long sides of the frame, 2 feet from each short end. Center the remaining six 4x4x36-inch posts on each chalk line and attach the posts to the frame using 4-inch long, 1/2-inch diameter wood screws.
6. Make 4-inch long, 1-inch deep rabbet cuts into each end of the three 2x4-inch by 44-inch bed board supports. Turn the bed supports rabbet side down and lay them between each set of posts, with the rabbet cuts covering the posts, flush on each side. Secure the bed board supports to the posts using two 4-inch long, 1/2-inch diameter wood screws at each end, two inches apart.
7. Attach the 48x36x1-inch plywood sheets to each end of the bed frame using 1 1/2-inch long, 1/4-inch diameter wood screws. Lay the bed board on top of the frame. Drill 1/8-inch diameter pilot holes through the bed board and into the plywood bed ends, 1/2-inch from the edge, every 6 inches, beginning at one corner of the bed board.
8. Sand the entire bed frame and the eight plywood door sheets using a belt sander with coarse, medium, fine and extra fine belts in that order. Attach the doors to the bed using piano hinge kits. Close each hinge and lay it along the left side of four of the doors, with the folded edge flush against the outer edge and the open edge facing right. Lay hinges along the other four doors along the right side of the door, with the open side facing left. Open the hinges, keeping the folded side of the hinge flush with the edge of the door. Attach each hinge using the screws supplied by the manufacturer.
9. Apply several coats of clear acrylic wood treatment to the entire bed, including the inside and outside of all the doors. Allow the wood treatment to dry for 24 hours between coats. Drill holes for the drawer pull fasteners supplied by the manufacturer. Attach one drawer pull to each door. If desired, add magnetic plates to each door to hold them shut.
Tags: 4-inch long, diameter wood, diameter wood screws, wood screws, 2-inch diameter